EVER SINCE jazz was introduced to the world, people sought out jazz to dance, party, and enjoy the cultural symbolism it held in music history. According to Kim Gwang-hyun, editor-in-chief of Korea's monthly jazz magazine Jazzpeople, Korea was properly introduced to jazz in the late 1980s during the democratization era [1]. When Korea adopted jazz, the musicians and fans developed their own tight-knit community. Live performances in venues such as jazz bars are now the mainstay of jazz musicians, making it an important part of keeping the jazz scene alive in a society dominated by pop music. By exploring three different jazz bars in Seoul, you can experience a special night out, but also gain a deeper appreciation for the music.

Jazz and Comfort: La Cle

   La Cle is located in a hidden alley in An-guk, a neighborhood known for its traditional Korean han-ok style buildings and romantic ambiance. The bar is a hotspot for couples, as it even appeared in the Channel A dating reality TV show Heart Signal due to its comfortable and warm atmosphere.

   On the Saturday night that we visited, the quartet performing consisted of a bass guitarist, electric guitarist, drummer, and a pianist. They mostly played familiar jazz hits from famous films or tracks such as Frank Sinatra’s Fly me to the Moon. The solo parts were subtle yet tasteful, adding to the overall casual and relaxed environment of the bar. The familiar music, intimate space, wine, and dim lighting merged to create the perfect setting for a special romantic evening.

   Unlike other jazz bars, La Cle focuses on establishing a laid-back, easy-listening atmosphere rather than demanding the audience’s attention on the jazz performance. Therefore, there is no pressure for the musicians to put on a show with decorative solos. This is appropriate as the bar is a center for young emerging jazz musicians, and the low-pressure atmosphere allows them to spend the evening with the audience rather than simply performing in front of them. The bassist of the band Han Soon-gu explained that “I was able to perform in La Cle today because my former mentor had been a regular performer here. I was handed down this position because he wanted me to learn how to become comfortable with showing my music to an audience in a cozy environment.” La Cle gives young musicians a platform to learn and develop their relationship with the audience, and the bar represents jazz’s nurturing and tight-knit community in South Korea.

Location: Seoul Jongno-gu Palpan-gil 42

Operating hours: 19:00-4:00 (Due to COVID-19 restrictions, it now closes at 22:00)

Entrance and Performance Fee: ₩3,000 per person

Price: ₩8,000 for a glass of wine, ₩7,000-₩15,000 for side-dish menus

Jazz and the Youth: Club Evans

   Located in Hapjeong, Club Evans is a jazz club that distinguishes itself by a classy yet youthful environment, rivaling the nearby Hongik University clubbing culture. Paying homage to jazz legend Bill Evans with its name, it boasts a history of hosting top jazz musicians, such as the Cho Nam-Yuol quartet. Over the years, Club Evans has become so successful that the bar now runs its own recording studio and even a jazz academy to support aspiring jazz musicians[3]. In this light, Club Evans is not only a place for consumers to revel in the experience of listening to live jazz music, but it is also one of the formative institutions of the jazz community in Korea.

   Club Evans hosts different bands every evening, which offers a great opportunity for numerous jazz musicians and composers to showcase their music. The band performing on the Friday night we visited consisted of a saxophonist, pianist, drummer, electric guitarist, and contrabassist. The leader of the group was drummer Cho Nam-yuol who showed off his compositions from his latest album CD “Conservation Conversation.” Their performance put more emphasis on the music and style compared to La Cle’s band, as the bar has a large defined stage space. According to the pianist Jeon Yong-joon, the leader scouted different instrument players since the jazz community in South Korea loves collaborations. The players assembled that night to perform at Club Evans. Jeon says, “Jazz musicians are free to practice the music they enjoy and work on different projects and groups.”

   The bar environment is engaging for both the musicians and the audience. There are many tables and seats to choose from. Even if you don’t have a table, there are free seats on large sofas. The seating arrangements also allow the musicians to frequently talk and interact with the audience between songs. During the latter half of the performance, leader Cho invited a guest trumpetist who was part of the audience to play with the band. The entrance of the trumpetist was refreshing, introducing a brass voice to the music. The bar presents the vibrance and profound passion young jazz lovers have.

Location: Seoul Mapo-gu Wausan-ro 63

Operating hours: 19:30-01:00 (Due to COVID-19 restrictions, it now closes at 22:00)

Entrance and Performance Fee: ₩10,000 per person

Price: ₩7,000 for a mocktail, ₩5,000-₩9,000 for cocktails

Jazz and Luxury: Positive Zero Lounge

   Positive Zero Lounge, located near Seoul Forest, is one of the more opulent jazz bars in Seoul: it operates on a first-come-first-serve reservation system for the performances and has a large selection of aged and expensive wines. Positive Zero Lounge promotes its bar as the center of “maintaining the culture of Seoul and Seongsu area.” The bar is located underground and differentiates itself from the other bars through its interior design. The main source of light is a sea of small candles decorating each table, adding to the sophisticated atmosphere. The arrangement of the chairs and tables makes the bar seem more like a dinner jazz show than a place where you can comfortably talk with your friends as the focus is primarily on the music. 

   The band performing the night we went was the same band from Club Evans, but this time, leader Cho invited saxophonist Kim Ji-suk to perform with them. Kim added an element of elegance compared to the prior performance in Club Evans, playing in a more passionate and sultry style. In an interview with The Yonsei Annals, Kim states how he has to constantly “strive for opportunities as jazz is a ‘niche’ genre of music in South Korea.” He also explained how jazz bars are one of the only ways for jazz musicians to perform and showcase their music.

   The bar serves French and Italian foods, drinks, and good quality wine. We shared a bottle of sparkling wine and a strawberry-topped cheesecake. The menu is on the expensive side, so the jazz bar seems to be most suitable for a more mature audience who have time and money.

Location: Seoul Seongdong-gu Yeonmujang-gil 14-2 B1

Operating hours: 18:00-22:00 (Due to COVID-19 restrictions, it now closes at 22:00)

Entrance and Performance Fee: ₩11,000 per person

Price: ₩66,000 for a bottle of sparkling wine and ₩8,000 for a slice of cheesecake

[1]: NPR

[2]: The Korean Times

[3]: The Culture Trip